I just finished reading Tracy McMillan‘s recent piece in Salon’s “Future of Food” series. (I featured a couple other stories from the series earlier this week.) In her contribution, McMillan raises issues of class that—consciously or otherwise—permeate much media coverage about the state of the American diet and food system. She notes that
roughly half of the conversation about how to secure the future of America’s food supply has been driven by the same just-buy-better-stuff logic [Alice] Waters embraces, despite its disturbing similarity to Marie Antoinette’s “Let them eat cake.” The other half of the discussion focuses on the structural challenges of eating well, sort of a caricature of liberal analysis.
It’s a thoughtful piece with some great links, including Alice Waters’s appearance on 60 Minutes a few years ago. Reading it reminded me of just how much I’m looking forward to McMillan’s recent book, The American Way of Eating. (That’s on hold until I finish Aaron Bobrow-Strain’s White Bread.)
Check out McMillan’s full essay here.