Last week André Darlington of Isthmus reviewed Paoli Cafe, the latest venture from the Ruegsegger family, proprietors of Ruegsegger Farms Natural Meats, Paoli Local Foods store, and more. As Darlington writes,
[A]t Paoli Cafe, Ken Ruegsegger grows your food (or gets it from friends), takes your order, helps prepare dishes, and then brings them out. It may be the only restaurant quite like it in the country. If it weren’t so honest and endearing, and the food so good, the premise could be a Portlandia sketch.
While Darlington doesn’t have much praise for the decor (“Don’t expect much when you walk in”) or presentation (“Food here sometimes lacks visual appeal”), most of the food gets high marks for flavor:
The trout and eggs, a delightful way to wake up, are straightforward. Both the eggs and the fish are of the highest quality, with flavors and texture at peak. Another star is the PLF’s Own Benedict: housemade bread, house-cured beef, fresh eggs and tomato hollandaise sauce. The wheaty bread is thick-cut and crispy, yet pliable; the big poached eggs have impossibly rich, golden yolks; the toothsome beef is an umami bomb; and the tomato hollandaise is simply extraordinary. More a golden tomato confit than a hollandaise, it is memorably succulent, as though it had bubbled on the back of a stove for hours.
In the end, Darlington suggests it’s a true locavore delight worth seeking out. I can’t wait to try it myself! In the meantime, head here for the full review.